A Tale of Two Luxury Hotels in San Francisco

Some hotels become destinations all on their own.

For years, the Fairmont San Francisco was that hotel for me. Perched high on Nob Hill, it is movie-famous, filled with grand architecture and sweeping city views, and home to the wonderfully quirky Tonga Room. The live band floating across the indoor lagoon is absolutely worth experiencing at least once.

If you had asked me not long ago where I would send someone looking for an upscale stay in San Francisco, I would have said the Fairmont without hesitation. Then something happened that I was not expecting.

When I pulled up to the hotel, I was asked more than once whether I was actually checking in. Maybe there was an innocent explanation. Maybe it was my Prius, the way I was dressed after the drive, or the fact that I did not arrive with the confidence they expected from a Fairmont guest. Whatever the reason, it left me feeling like I had to prove that I belonged there.

Once inside, the staff was courteous and the lobby was as majestic as ever. I was also offered the opportunity to upgrade my room, which felt a little unusual since I was staying there for a work-related conference.

I have had the privilege of staying at the Fairmont before, and I already knew that the hotel has two very different room experiences. One side offers roomy accommodations and gorgeous views of San Francisco. The other side is still perfectly nice, but the rooms are smaller and do not have quite the same magic. This time, I was sent to the second side.

The room was cute and comfortable, but at an average price of around $300 a night, and sometimes much more, it did not feel especially memorable. The biggest shock, however, was not the room rate. It was the parking. Valet parking is the only option at the hotel, and it costs $120 per day. That expense can take an already costly San Francisco stay to an entirely different level. It also made my chilly arrival with the valet feel even more disappointing.

None of that changes the fact that the Fairmont is a gorgeous hotel. Its vintage style feels like old-school San Francisco in the best possible way. The architecture, the rooms, the dramatic lobby and the elegant restaurants all create a sense of grandeur from the moment you walk inside.

Then, of course, there is the Tonga Room. Locals and travelers alike visit the famous tiki bar for the tropical atmosphere, live music and band that floats out into the middle of the lagoon. The food and drinks are expensive, and the whole thing is admittedly a little gimmicky, but it is still an experience worth having at least once.

The Fairmont looked exactly like luxury was supposed to look. I just never felt fully comfortable there.

The hotel also sits a little apart from the action on Nob Hill. For some travelers, that quiet distance may be exactly what they want. For me, it added to the feeling that I was somehow removed from San Francisco rather than connected to it.

As luck would have it, I was not done with the city. I had already been in San Francisco speaking at a conference and decided to add one extra personal day before heading home. My American Express Fine Hotels + Resorts credit was about to expire, and I thought this would be the perfect opportunity to use it and try somewhere new.

That is how I landed at Taj Campton Place.

The hotel sits quietly in the heart of Union Square, surrounded by much larger and more recognizable names. The Westin is just around the corner, and other major hotels seem to tower over it.

Taj Campton Place does not demand your attention from the outside. It simply waits for the right traveler to find it. From the moment I arrived, everything felt different. The doorman greeted me warmly and immediately took care of my vehicle. Staff members opened the doors and welcomed me into the hotel as though they were welcoming me into their home. I had never stayed there before, but they treated me like someone they were genuinely happy to see.

At check-in, I was upgraded to a beautiful room on a higher floor without having to ask and without anyone trying to sell me anything. The person checking me in pointed out the window seat in my room and suggested that, after a long conference, I should open the windows, sit there for a few minutes and take in the city.

He was right.

Opening those windows, feeling the breeze come through and looking out over Union Square was exactly what I needed after a stressful day. It was a small recommendation, but it showed that he had listened to me and understood what might make my stay more meaningful.

The room itself was enormous, with a comfortable bed, floor-to-ceiling mirrors and a large bathroom with a beautiful elevated tub. The Asian influence in the hotel’s design could be seen throughout the space, and the bathroom included a generous dressing area and a closet located directly inside it.

The raised tub may not be ideal for someone who has difficulty climbing a step, but for me, it added another level of elegance to the room.

Then the valet noticed that my tire looked low. When he moved the car to the parking structure, he asked the staff there to inspect it and help him locate a pump. After filling the tire, he tracked me down, explained what he had noticed and encouraged me to have it checked immediately. The hotel staff helped me find a nearby tire shop and gave me directions. It turned out that there was a nail in my tire and that the tire needed to be replaced. The shop could tell it had likely been dangerously low for several days. That meant the same tire had probably been low when I arrived at the Fairmont. No one there said anything.

I do not expect a hotel to provide tire inspections. That is certainly not part of the room rate. But the fact that someone at Taj Campton Place noticed, cared enough to act and made sure I was safe said more about the hotel than any marble lobby ever could. He had nothing to gain by saying something. He just cared.

The rest of my stay followed that same tone: thoughtful, warm and quietly excellent.

Because I booked through American Express Fine Hotels + Resorts, the hotel stay was reimbursed through my available credit. I also received a $100 food and beverage credit and breakfast benefits, which meant I was able to stay, have dinner and enjoy breakfast for almost nothing out of pocket.

The restaurant was exceptional, serving flavorful Indian cuisine created under the direction of a Michelin-starred chef. The bar staff were equally memorable, offering warm and meaningful service to every person who sat down.

Many of the guests in the restaurant and bar did not appear to be staying at the hotel. They were San Francisco locals choosing to spend their evening there, which spoke volumes about the food and service.

The Union Square location also allowed me to step outside and immediately enjoy the city. I found activities happening in the park, walked around the neighborhood and spent time simply enjoying the hotel.

When I checked out, I was treated with the same warmth and care that I received when I arrived.

The Fairmont remains a gorgeous historic hotel, and I would still send people there for dinner or an evening at the Tonga Room. But if you asked me where I would book my own upscale stay, my answer has changed.

Sometimes the hotel everyone talks about is worth the reputation, and sometimes the smaller place, quietly tucked between the giants, becomes the place you cannot stop recommending.

That is one of my favorite reminders about travel. The biggest name is not always the best fit. The most memorable experiences often come from giving somewhere unexpected a chance.

And isn’t that the best part?

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